Sunday, June 13, 2010

Just what I needed

Having arrived in San Antonio, I crashed hard. Upon waking, I opened my door onto the glaring sun and a gust of 95 degree humid air. I closed the door and laid back down. When I rose again, the sun had started to set and I braved another excursion. These Extended Stay Motels are always in the armpit of town and was pleased to find this one no exception. Directly across the street is EZ Payday Loans & Check Cashing and Jerky World. No lie. But I find these areas of town to have my favorite kinds of restaurants in them: little, authentic, generally-ethnic eateries of little pretense. My iPhone told me there was a pho place around the corner and I thought a bun cha giao might be just the ticket in this heat. I set out in search! The pho place was long gone, replaced by a Domino's Pizza but in an adjoining strip mall was a place that my restaurant radar was beckoning me into like an air traffic controller waving lighted cones. And once again, my spidey sense satisfied.

Moroccan Bites Tagine Cuisine (http://www.moroccanbitescuisine.com/) had a few little tables out in front that looked like they could be of use only after the sun went down. I went in and sat myself in one of the eight or so tables. There were only two other tables occupied, both with groups engrossed in conversation. I thumbed through the menu and order a combo grill plate to experience the widest array. As much as I would have liked to try it, the heat had sapped my enthusiasm for tagine! Cold water was poured into a clear red plaster tumbler and I was brought a small bowl of spicy pickles and olives. My server looked at the pickles and arched her eyebrows... "Spicy!" I thought this was turning out rather well and settled in for my meal.

It arrived almost instantly. The spiced carrots, barbas (beets) and lettuce side was refreshing. The carrots had fresh oregano and a hint of lemon that brought out their sweetness. The beets were steamed, undressed and earthy whilt the chopped romaine provide a bed. The three skewers were lamb, chicken and a chopped lamb kafta kebab on a bed of pilaf. They had been roasted on charcoal and were moist and succulent. A fantastic plate and the $13 price tag only made it more delicious. As I wrapped up, my server asked if I was sure I didn't want something sweet. I had a little room and said I'd love to look at the pastry case. There was a couple seated next to the pastry case who had just finished there dessert, and in the way of satisfied diners everywhere asked me how I had liked my meal. I said it was fantastic, that it was first day in town and I had managed to choose very well for myself. They laughed and said San Antonio has some very fine restaurants. My server began to point out the desserts as they leaned out of the way so I could see them. There was a pineapple cake, baklava and numerous others. She said "we have this with rosewater, almonds, honey..." I stopped her short and said "Sold!" She grinned from ear to ear. I returned to my table and saw that the sun had finally gone down and restaurant was closing. Sure enough, the kitchen staff began to populate the tables outside, smoking, talking, laughing. Then this arrived at my table.

As you gaze upon this, you should hear a choir of angels, a rich harmonic swell of well being. This, ladies and gentlemen, is basbossa. "An Egyptian cake, but we know how to make it," she said. She placed it one the table and I said "Tell me again...?" She smiled and said "Rosewater, almonds, honey... semolina." I smiled and so did she. I took my fork in my hand and sensed that I was poised on the brink of greatness. I cut a small bite from the corner, much smaller than my usual. I lifted it onto my fork, gathered a bit of the maple syrup drizzle and gave it a small flourish. I took it to my lips and partook.
My other senses dimmed as I was transported. This flavor! This flavor! It was as charming, as comforting, as mysterious as a hauntingly beautiful Old-World grandmother winking out from beneath wrinkles and shawl. She is saying something to me... what is she saying? Slowly the world fell back into place. I shuddered, shaking off the trance. The couple who were sitting next to pastry case were watching me, smiling. He asked across the little room, "Well?" I managed to stammer out "Excellent...", grinning from ear to ear.
Then we laughed. We shared a laugh, all three of us together. We laughed the laugh of those who know, of those who know basbossa.

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